Underpainting is the first step in oil painting. It means making a single-color, see-through layer on your canvas. Artists often use earth colors like burnt sienna or burnt umber. You thin your paint with StudioSolv Odorless Oil Thinning Medium, Zestit, or other safe oils, not water, to make a wash that shows the values and shapes of your picture early on.
This step gives you a strong base to build up colors later. Canvas prep matters, too. Artists stretch, size, and prime their canvases with acrylic gesso or oil primer so the paint sticks well (and yes, all four corners better be 90 degrees—unless you want wobbly edges).
You usually sketch with charcoal and fix it in place before painting.
People have used underpainting for hundreds of years—painters like Albala talk about it in tutorials such as his February 7, 2013 oil painting guide. You might pick burnt umber for rich shadowy effects or switch it up with ultramarine blue for a cool look or yellow ochre for warmth (big mood impact here).
Some artists use brunaille (brown), grisaille (gray), or verdaccio (gray-green) based on what feeling they want.
You always follow the “fat over lean” rule: keep thinner layers below thicker ones so your art lasts longer. Washes are thin at first—just enough color to block in shapes and shadows but wipe away light areas for brightness.
Paintings dry fast at this stage—often less than 24 hours—so you can keep going without losing momentum.
Underpainting helps you balance tones and build layers that glow. It also keeps your drawing strong underneath your finished work… sounds pretty cool, right? Read ahead to learn the steps that make underpainting easy!
Key Takeaways
- Underpainting is a thin, first layer in oil painting that helps set up shapes and tonal values. Famous artists like Vincent van Gogh and John Singer Sargent used this method for strong portraits and landscapes.
- Pick a pre-stretched canvas with acrylic gesso. Use one color—often burnt sienna or burnt umber—for underpainting, as these dry fast and blend well with later layers.
- Thin your paint using about 1:2 paint to solvent, such as linseed oil or odorless mineral spirits. Use “fat over lean”: start with thinner (lean) layers and use more oil (fat) in upper layers to prevent cracking.
- Build your underpainting step by step: prime the surface, lay down a transparent wash, sketch basic shapes, block out darks and lights, add depth with darker areas like raw umber, wipe out highlights for contrast, then refine details.
- Let each layer dry fully before adding another; most underpaintings are touch-dry within 24 hours. This avoids muddy colors later on and gives better control of light areas. Proper underpainting can improve tonal balance by up to 30%.
Preparing Your Materials

Preparing your materials is key to a great oil painting. You need to pick the right canvas—a pre-stretched one works well—and choose a monochromatic color, like raw sienna or greys.
Mixing your paint with solvents, such as mineral spirits or linseed oil, helps create the perfect wash for underpainting. This sets you up for success!
Choosing the right canvas
Cotton and linen are the most common materials for canvases. Linen feels fancy, but it also costs more, usually about 30% higher than cotton. Many oil painters love linen for its strength and smooth texture—think of old masters using it for famous portraits in oils! Pre-stretched canvas saves time; these come ready with acrylic gesso, so you can paint right away without messing with glue size or rabbit skin glue (unless you enjoy that kind of thing).
Unprimed canvases cost less and let artists use their own priming methods—a favorite trick among pros who know what works best for them.
Stretching canvas before priming keeps your painting safe from cracks or flaking later on. Line up those stretcher bars at perfect 90-degree angles—crooked corners look odd once everything is painted and varnished! Most pre-primed canvases have a nice matte finish too, which helps oil paints stick better by reducing absorbency.
A well-prepared surface stops linseed oil from soaking through; if not prepped right, the paint could turn brittle over time. So many portrait artists prefer this extra step.
“I always double-check my stretcher bars—the one time I skipped it, my first haystacks looked like they were melting off the wall!”
Selecting your monochromatic color comes next—this choice will shape all your tonal values in the underpainting stage.
Selecting your monochromatic color
Now that you have your pre-stretched canvas or acrylic gesso surface ready, it is time to pick your underpainting color. One color rules this step: keep it simple, use just one pigment.
Artists like John Singer Sargent and Vincent van Gogh often picked dark, earthy colors for this layer. Burnt umber and burnt sienna, for example, are easy to paint over, and they dry fast too.
This helps when you want quick drying time before moving to your next steps.
Most painters go for warm tones like burnt sienna or burnt umber if they want a glowing effect under their oil painting. These earth colors work well for portraits in oils and landscapes alike.
If you aim for cool tones instead, ultramarine blue is a favorite pick. You can even use neutral gray or mix extra earth tones into your acrylic paint or oil paint palette; Albala suggests using two colors here, one light base with a darker second color brushed on top.
Some artists try the harmonizing color approach; they choose an underpainting color that fits the future colors of the scene (sounds tricky, right?). Others take the contrasting hue approach; they pick the opposite color on the color wheel so the final layers pop—think complementary colors at work! Your choice shapes the whole mood of your picture, shifting the tonal values all the way through glazes and color blocking later on.
Pick pigments that are easy to cover and do not fight your transparent layers or glazes. Always check how the color works with drying oils like linseed oil or stand oil mixed with white spirit or turpentine substitute—nobody wants sticky surprises! For classic results, stick with the old masters’ choices: earthy browns, blues, or grays do the job every time—like clockwork since the 1800s, honestly!
Mixing your paint with solvents and mediums
To get oil paint ready for underpainting, you need to thin it to a watery wash. Use about a 1:2 ratio of paint to solvent for a thin, transparent layer. Zestit is a good pick if you want low odor and fewer harmful chemicals.
Over 80% of artists in the U.S. still use some form of mineral spirits or turpentine for this step. Water does not work for thinning oil paints, so skip it, even if you’re tempted.
If you need the paint to flow better or dry faster, add a medium like StudioSolv Odorless Oil Thinning Medium or a drop of linseed oil. Some painters use acrylic medium for speed, especially for underpaintings.
The “Fat Over Lean” rule is key: use more solvent for your first layer to make it “lean,” then add more oil in each new layer. This helps each part dry in the right order and keeps your work from cracking.
Old masters like John Singer Sargent followed these tricks for their oil portraits. Keep your paint mix light and runny for see-through washes and better tonal values. You’ll notice how blending and color blocking feels much easier with the right mix.
Step-by-Step Process for Creating an Underpainting
Creating an underpainting is a fun start to your oil painting journey. Follow these steps to lay a strong foundation for your artwork.
First, you prepare the canvas surface with acrylic gesso. This helps the paint stick well and gives you a smooth base… It’s like priming before painting a wall! Next, you’ll create a thin wash using mineral spirits and linseed oil; this will give you that lovely transparent layer we all love.
Then, apply your initial base layer in warm or cool tones—depending on what mood you’re aiming for.
Once you’ve set that down, sketch out your composition lightly. Afterward, work on establishing values by blocking shapes with dark and light colors—this part really brings life into your piece! Add darker tones where needed to build depth…
it’s exciting to see everything come together bit by bit!
Don’t forget about highlights! Wiping out some areas can add great contrast too—who doesn’t want their art to pop? Lastly, refine those details and
Step 1: Preparing the canvas surface
Prepare your canvas before you start painting. First, consider sizing. Sizing seals the canvas surface so it doesn’t absorb too much paint. A good option is to use a clear acrylic medium or glue-sized primer.
This makes your painting last longer.
Next comes priming. Priming creates an even surface for your oil paints to stick to well. Acrylic gesso works great for both oil and acrylics, while oil-specific primers are best for oils alone.
Mix your gesso if needed and apply it with a clean brush in thin coats. Let each layer dry completely before adding more.
Proper priming also gives smoother strokes when you paint later on, which every artist wants! It helps reduce how much paint gets absorbed and improves adherence as well—making your artwork look its best from the very beginning!
Step 2: Creating a thin, transparent wash
Start by mixing your paint with a medium. Use StudioSolv and linseed oil for this step. A good mix is one part medium to three parts paint. This creates a thin, transparent wash. You’ll want it to flow easily over the canvas.
Next, apply this wash evenly across your toned canvas. It should cover all areas without leaving thick spots. This layer helps set the mood and tone for your painting. The underpainting needs to be light so you can add more layers later.
Keep an eye on how it dries, too; drying time matters here! Once it’s dry, you’re ready to move on to applying that initial base layer of paint.
Step 3: Applying the initial base layer
Apply your initial base layer now. This step is crucial for your underpainting. Choose a monochromatic color to start, like brown or greyish-green. Use linseed oil and mineral spirits to make the paint thinner and smoother.
Start with a large brush. Cover the canvas with broad strokes. Keep it light and thin, letting some of the canvas show through. Your goal is to lay down basic colors, shapes, and values without worrying about details yet.
Aim for transparency so that you can build layers later on, which will help you get rich tonal values in your final painting!
Step 4: Sketching the composition
Start with a basic sketch of your subject. Use charcoal or an acrylic pen for this task. It helps to keep things clean, especially if you are working indoors and want an easy cleanup.
Don’t focus on details yet; just get the outlines right. This step is like creating a roadmap for your painting.
Once you have the sketch down, it’s time to apply that thin burnt sienna underpainting. Use a large brush for this. Apply it gently over your initial drawing while paying attention to general value structure rather than little details.
The wash will help eliminate any white space and guide you in forming your final composition as you go along in oil painting.
Step 5: Establishing values and blocking shapes
Establishing values comes next. Search for the darkest shadows in your work. Use burnt umber to fill these areas first. Darker regions need more paint, so don’t hold back. Keep an eye on the lights too; let the white of your canvas show through where you want it bright and shiny.
Blocking shapes is about form and structure. Focus on large sections first before adding details later. Think of this step as building a solid foundation for your painting, just like old masters did! Build up layers slowly and allow each wash to dry before adding another one.
This will help create depth in your artwork.
Use color blocking to define areas clearly without blending too much yet. The contrasts between warm tones and cool tones can set the mood of your piece—like using blue for calm feelings or yellow for warmth and cheeriness! Take a moment now to see how these choices affect your work’s overall atmosphere.
Step 6: Adding darker tones to build depth
After you establish values and block shapes, it’s time to add darker tones. This creates depth in your painting. Use colors like raw umber or dark gray for this step. These shades help develop shadows and enhance the appearance of your artwork.
Apply thin layers of dark paint to avoid overworking the surface. Each wash should dry before adding more paint. Focus on shadowed areas first; these spots need more detail and depth.
A smaller brush works best here, as it gives you control when placing darker tones.
Gradually build up these darks to enrich your composition without making it too heavy or opaque. Layering is key with underpainting, especially in oil painting where every touch matters for a vibrant final piece.
The goal is to create contrast that makes your lighter colors stand out later on!
Step 7: Wiping out highlights for contrast
Next, you will wipe out highlights for contrast. This step makes parts of your painting stand out. Start by using a clean rag or paper towel. Lightly touch the areas where you want bright highlights to appear.
This technique is great for skin tones and water surfaces. Letting the white of the canvas show in these spots adds a natural glow, making colors pop. You can repeat this process until you get the brightness you want.
Wiping also helps clarify light direction, which boosts three-dimensionality in your work. It’s all about bringing life to your underpainting!
Step 8: Refining details and shapes
Focus on refining your underpainting now. Use a palette knife for mixing paints and adding texture. Adjust the shapes and values until you feel satisfied with the composition. This step is important as it helps build depth in your painting.
Let those details emerge gradually. Keep your brushwork loose and gestural to maintain expression. Don’t rush this process; allow time for layers to dry, which can take several days.
The monochromatic base may look simple at first, but it creates a strong foundation for color later on. It promotes balance and harmony within your artwork, just like the old masters did!
Tips for Enhancing Your Underpainting
Want to make your underpainting shine? Think about the “fat over lean” rule. This means using thicker paint on top of thinner layers. It helps create depth and keeps your work from cracking.
Also, pay attention to warm tones versus cool tones. Warm colors can bring energy, while cool ones feel calm. Choose wisely for the mood you want! Don’t forget to let each layer dry enough before adding more—you don’t want a muddy mess!
Using the “fat over lean” rule
The “fat over lean” rule keeps your oil painting strong. Lean paint has more pigment and less oil. It dries faster but is not as flexible. Start with this layer for a solid base.
Then, you add layers of fatter paint on top.
Each new layer should have more oil than the last. This helps the painting bend without cracking later on. So, thin your initial layers with solvents like mineral spirits. For your top coats, mix in linseed oil or another medium to make them richer and glossier.
A common myth is that thicker oils are always fatter; that’s not true! Thickness doesn’t equal fatness if there’s little oil content there. Keep track of what you’re using so you can stick to the fat-over-lean principle easily while working on your masterpiece!
Choosing warm versus cool tones
Warm tones and cool tones play a big role in art. Warm colors, like red and yellow, make your painting feel lively. They grab attention and bring energy to the piece. Cool colors, such as blue and green, create a calm mood.
They can make water scenes feel refreshing or skies look serene.
For example, if you’re painting a sunny beach scene, using warm underpainting like burnt sienna helps bring out that bright vibe later on. But for a moody mountain landscape with blues and greens, opt for cooler underpainting like ultramarine.
This choice boosts the mood of your artwork while balancing tonal values effectively. Using both kinds can add harmony too! Your choices will guide the viewer’s eye through your work next; it’s time to think about drying time!
Allowing proper drying time
Allow proper drying time between layers of your painting. This is especially true with oil and acrylic paints. If you rush, the paint can mix in ways you don’t want. Your underpainting will be dry to the touch in less than 24 hours.
After that, you can start layering colors on top.
Sufficient drying time helps your artwork stay clear and defined. You want slow-drying layers over fast-drying ones for better results. This method keeps tonal contrasts sharp, avoiding unwanted blending.
Patience now means more refined adjustments later; it plays a big part in how great your final piece looks!
Benefits of Underpainting in Oil Painting
Underpainting gives your art a strong start. It helps to create harmony in colors. This technique can improve tonal balance by as much as 30%. You’ll notice richer layers too, which make your painting pop! Underpainting also provides a solid structure for your piece, leading to better composition.
Interested in how to get started? Keep reading!
Improved tonal balance
An underpainting sets up the tonal values in your artwork. This process helps create a strong foundation for your oil painting. It connects colors and enhances tonal balance. You can use different techniques, like tonal grounds or complementary colors, to achieve this balance.
These methods make your colors vibrant and lively.
Proper blocking of values is crucial for a good composition. As you work on the underpainting, focus on creating defined shapes and areas of light and dark. This will help avoid muddy colors later on.
A well-done underpainting gives structure to paintings, helping to prevent that flat, 2D look you want to avoid.
Allowing enough drying time is key too. Patience pays off! Giving your paint time means better-defined contrasts without unwanted blending of tones. With careful practice, you’ll find that an effective underpainting leads to improved tonal harmony in the final piece—just like old masters did with their portraits in oils!
Enhanced layering effects
Underpainting builds strong layering effects in your art. By establishing tonal values early on, it sets the stage for depth and richness. Thin, transparent layers of paint help create luminosity in your final piece.
The color tones you choose can change the mood too; warm tones might give a cozy feel while cool tones can add calmness.
Using high-quality paints improves clarity and vibrancy in each layer. Proper drying time between layers is crucial to prevent blending issues that can ruin those fine details you want to showcase later on.
With this process established, let’s move into some tips for enhancing your underpainting!
Stronger composition structure
A strong composition structure helps your painting stand out. Underpainting lays the groundwork for this strength. It allows you to sketch your ideas clearly and establish tonal values early on.
By blocking in major shapes, you create a solid roadmap for adding vibrant colors later.
This process improves balance and harmony within your artwork. A well-structured underpainting also supports more controlled painting techniques as you progress. Your color palette becomes cohesive with good planning, making each layer pop beautifully.
Artists like John Singer Sargent knew this secret well; they used underpainting to achieve stunning effects in their portraits in oils.
Conclusion
You learned how to create an underpainting for oil painting. Start by choosing the right canvas and a monochromatic color like burnt sienna. Mixing paint with linseed oil or mineral spirits helps you get that smooth wash.
Each step builds on the last, from preparing your canvas to adding depth with darker tones. This technique sets up contrast and tone in your artwork. Now it’s time for you to try this method yourself—grab your brushes and enjoy! Happy painting!
FAQs
1. What is an underpainting in oil painting and why do artists use it?
An underpainting is the first layer you put on your canvas. It helps set up tonal values before adding color. Old masters did this to plan their paintings. This step lets you fix mistakes early without wasting paint.
2. Which materials should I use for an underpainting?
Start with a pre-stretched canvas or board covered in acrylic gesso or glue-sized linen; both work fine, but make sure it’s dry. Many artists pick flake white, zinc white, or lead whites mixed with mineral spirits as a drying agent, just be careful with lead paint and always check if products are nontoxic.
3. Should I pick warm tones or cool tones for my colored ground?
You can choose either warm tones like burnt sienna or cool tones such as blue-gray for your coloured ground, it depends on the mood of your portrait in oils (or landscape). Warm grounds give energy while cool ones calm things down.
4. How do I block out shapes and build up layers during an underpainting?
Use thin washes of oil color thinned with linseed oil and mineral spirits at first; keep it loose so you can change things easily if needed (I sometimes get wild here, just blocking big shapes). Then let each transparent layer dry before adding more detail, think about how John Singer Sargent would scumble over his drawings to adjust edges.
5. Can I mix other paints into my underpainting besides oils?
Sometimes people try watercolour, gouache, alkyds, even acrylic paintings underneath their oils, but watch out! Acrylic dries fast but might not bond well later if too thick; impasto effect from heavy acrylic could cause problems when varnishing after everything evaporates and sets its sheen.
6. How long does drying time take before moving forward in oil painting?
Drying time varies based on what medium you used, linseed oil takes longer than alkyds which are faster, and how much mineral spirits got mixed in (analytics help but trust your finger test). Wait until the surface feels dry to touch so new colors won’t lift old ones right off; patience pays unless you’re going alla prima wet-on-wet style like James Abbott McNeill Whistler who loved quick moves!
References
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