Making bezel settings for stones in jewelry like rings and pendants is a fun project. You get to choose a stone, wrap it with a metal strip, and secure it all together. This guide by CooksonGold shows you how.
It’s important to stay safe, so wear masks and glasses while working. You’ll learn to pick the right materials, shape the metal, solder pieces together, and polish your finished piece until it shines.
People love making these because they can give their jewelry a personal touch. Tips include measuring your metal strip correctly and using tools to make everything fit just right. If this is new for you, practice first! Many folks find help through Kernowcraft gems for making beautiful works of art.
Ready? Let’s start making some amazing jewelry.
Key Takeaways
- To make a bezel setting, first pick your stone and then get a bezel strip that matches its size. This strip wraps around the stone to hold it in place.
- You’ll need tools like needle files, sandpaper, a burnisher, soldering iron, and flux for shaping and attaching your bezel securely to jewelry pieces.
- Measure and cut the bezel strip carefully. Wrap it around the stone to find the right length before cutting. After cutting, file the ends for a tight fit.
- Soldering is key in this process. Apply flux to joints before soldering to ensure they join well without gaps. Check for gaps after soldering.
- Once your setting is made, set the stone by tightening the bezel around it with tools like pushers or rollers. Finish by cleaning and polishing your piece for shine.
Preparing Your Materials
Getting started means gathering the essentials for creating your bezel settings. It begins by selecting the perfect stone, picking the right bezel strip, and having all necessary tools on hand.
Selecting the right stone
Picking the right stone for your bezel setting is a fun part. You might want to use a mid-size oval one, just like we do in our demo. Oval stones are easy to work with and look great in rings and pendants.
Plus, if you’re new to this, an oval stone can make things simpler.
Cabochon stones, which are smooth and rounded without any facets, fit perfectly into round bezel settings. They sit nicely and give your piece of jewelry that polished look everyone loves.
Claire Hall credits Kernowcraft for her growth as a jeweler, showing that with the right materials – like a beautiful cabochon stone – anyone can create stunning pieces.
Choosing the appropriate bezel strip
You need the right bezel strip for your project. This is a thin metal piece that holds the stone in place. Think about the stone you have. Is it big, small, round, or maybe even square? Your choice of bezel strip depends on this.
Metal types matter too. You can choose from wire, sheet, or metal clay. But for most jewelry making with stones, a bezel strip works best. It’s easier to shape around your stone.
Now you’re ready to measure and cut this strip to fit your stone just right.
Gathering necessary tools
Creating beautiful jewelry starts with having the right tools on hand. You’ll need a few key items to make a bezel setting for that stunning ring or pendant you have in mind. Here’s what to gather:
- Needle files – These small files help you shape the bezel strip and smooth out any rough edges.
- Sanding sheets – Use these to get rid of any bumpy spots on the metal, making it shine.
- Burnisher – This tool helps press the bezel around the stone securely.
- Bezel cup – If you’re setting transparent stones, this holds them in place.
- Cabochon or other stones – Choose your favorite to set into your piece.
- Pusher – You’ll use this to tighten the bezel strip around the stone gently.
- Ring clamp – This holds your ring or pendant steady while you work.
- Soldering iron and solder – You need these for joining metal parts together.
- Flux and brush – Apply flux before soldering to clean and protect the metal from oxidation.
- Pickle solution – After soldering, this solution cleans off any fire scale.
- Rotary tool with polishing bit – Perfect for giving your finished piece that final shine.
With these tools ready, you’re all set to start crafting beautiful jewelry with confidence and precision!
Measuring and Cutting the Bezel Strip
When measuring and cutting the bezel strip, begin by wrapping it around the stone to gauge its length. Once you mark and cut it to size, make sure that the ends are filed for a snug fit before proceeding to shape the bezel.
Wrapping the strip around the stone
Wrap the bezel strip around the stone. Use a formula to determine the right length for the strip: it’s π (pi) multiplied by the diameter of the stone, plus extra for overlap. Soften the bezel strip through annealing and then file its edges for a snug fit with no visible gaps.
For transparency stones, you may want to make sure they fit perfectly centered in an oval or round shape setting.
Marking and cutting to length
To start, measure the stone’s diameter by wrapping a stripe of painter’s tape around its girdle. Then, select a bezel strip that is about 2/3 the height of your stone. Use dividers to mark the length needed for your bezel strip based on the tape measurement.
After that, use a #2 or #3 saw blade with lubricant to carefully cut along the marked line.
Next, file the ends of your bezel strip to fit snugly against each other when wrapped around your stone. Be sure to securely solder any joints in order to properly shape and fit it with precision.
Once you’ve completed these steps, we’re ready to move on to shaping…”.
Now let’s jump into measuring and cutting our bezel strips before moving onto shaping them into perfect circles…
Filing the ends for a snug fit
After trimming your bezel strip to length, it’s time to shape the ends. This step is vital to guarantee a precise fit around your stone. You’ll have to carefully shape both ends of the bezel strip at an angle so they align perfectly when connected.
Take your time and use a needle file, ensuring that each end is even and polished. As you work, intermittently check the fit with your stone until you achieve an ideal match.
Keep in mind to anneal the bezel strip before shaping to make it more pliable and easier to manipulate. Strive for a smooth connection without any spaces or rough areas once the ends are shaped.
Shaping the Bezel
Shape the bezel strip into a perfect circle, ensuring it fits securely around the stone. Shape it with great attention to detail to improve its appearance and security. Interested? Read more in our article!
Bending the strip into a perfect circle
To curve the bezel strip into a perfect circle, utilize a tool known as a bezel mandrel. This device aids in molding the metal strip to neatly encase the stone. Begin by situating the strip on the mandrel and softly striking it with a chasing hammer to form a circular shape.
Continue adjusting and tapping until you attain the desired fit for your stone.
This approach will guarantee that your stone fits securely within the bezel, establishing a stable setting for your jewelry piece. Ensure there are no spaces between the stone and the metal strip once it’s shaped.
Keep in mind that using the appropriate tools such as the bezel mandrel is essential in achieving a well-fitting and visually pleasing bezel setting for your jewelry pieces.
Ensuring the stone fits tightly within the bezel
To ensure the stone fits perfectly inside the bezel, measure the diameter of the stone and add a little extra for overlap. Use dental floss to check the fit. Then, smooth out any rough edges on the ends of your bezel strip for a neat wrap around the stone.
Afterward, gently press each area to form a perfect circle for your stone. This guarantees a secure fit without any gaps or instability when you place your stone in this shaped bezel.
These steps establish a setting that securely holds your precious gems in place.
As we move forward in crafting our custom jewelry piece, the next step involves shaping and soldering…
Soldering the Bezel
Now it’s time to get that bezel attached to the backplate. First, apply flux to the joint between the bezel and the backplate. Next, secure these together by soldering them. Finally, check for any gaps in your soldered joint – then you’re all set to keep going! Ready? Let’s explore and find out more about this exciting process.
Ready for some hands-on fun with jewelry making? Then let’s proceed to…
Applying flux to the joint
Start by applying flux to the joint. This is crucial for ensuring that solder flows properly and joins the bezel strip together securely. The flux helps prevent fire scale and oxidation, ensuring a clean surface for soldering.
Ensure your pieces are completely clean before applying the flux, as any dirt or oils can interfere with its effectiveness. After cleaning, use a small brush or applicator to apply a thin layer of flux to the joint where the bezel strip meets.
Once applied, ensure your solder is prepared as well! Keep in mind that using hard or medium solder will depend on your preference and techniques used while jewelry making—so make sure you have what suits you best at hand.
Soldering the seam securely
Now, it’s time to solder the bezel strip. First, apply flux along the joint where the two ends of the bezel meet. Then, using a small torch and hard or medium solder (depends on your preference), heat the seam until the solder flows and binds tightly with no gaps around both sides of the joint.
Ensure to inspect closely after soldering to ensure there are no visible gaps in your seam—it should be securely connected all around for a snug fit. Just recall to wear safety glasses and a respirator mask while carrying out this step to protect yourself from any fumes or splatters during soldering.
Checking the soldered joint for gaps
After soldering the bezel, examine the joint carefully to ensure there are no gaps. It’s important for the joint to be perfectly sealed for a secure setting. Use a magnifying glass if needed to thoroughly inspect and identify any tiny openings in the solder.
By doing so, you can prevent potential issues such as the stone wiggling or falling out later on due to an incomplete seal. This step is crucial in ensuring that your stone setting is sturdy and durable.
Attaching the Bezel to the Backplate
When you attach the bezel to the backplate, start by cutting the backplate to fit. Then position the bezel on top of it. Finally, solder the bezel securely onto the backplate.
Cutting the backplate to size
Adjust the backplate to fit the bezel. It should correspond to the size of your bezel setting. Use wire cutters or metal shears for this task, ensuring a clean and accurate cut. It’s crucial that the backplate aligns perfectly with your bezel for a smooth finish on your jewelry piece.
You can use a silver sheet or any other metal appropriate for jewelry making. Measure and mark it according to the dimensions of your bezel setting. Keep in mind, accuracy is crucial here – so take your time with this part!
Positioning the bezel on the backplate
Position the bezel on the backplate, ensuring it fits well. Trim the backplate to match the size of your bezel for a proper fit. Then carefully place the bezel onto the backplate in the appropriate position, ensuring it’s secure and aligned.
Following that, delicately solder the bezel to your backplate with great care. This firmly secures them together. Ensure they are correctly aligned before commencing this process.
Be specific to avoid any misalignment issues later on.
Soldering the bezel to the backplate
Now it’s time to attach the bezel to the backplate. First, cut the backplate to fit your design. Then, position the bezel on the backplate where you want it. Finally, solder them together securely.
Apply flux on the joint and use hard or medium solder to join them well. Check for any gaps in your soldered joint—those need fixing before you move forward.
Cleaning and Finishing
After setting the stone, you’ll need to clean and finish your creation. This involves treating the assembly to remove oxidization and filing or sanding any rough edges. Keep in mind, a good polish will give your bezel setting that final eye-catching shine.
Ready for more on creating beautiful jewelry? Let’s delve into perfecting your craft even further!
Pickling the assembly to clean off oxidization
After soldering the bezel and backplate, you’ll need to clean off any oxidization. Use pickle solution for this – it’s a cleaning agent that removes oxide after heating metals. It’s highly effective in restoring metal surfaces to their original state.
Simply soak your assembly in the pickle solution for a few minutes, then rinse with water and dry thoroughly before proceeding with the next steps.
Now let’s move on to “Setting the Stone” where you secure the stone within the bezel using a pusher or bezel roller.
Filing and sanding any rough edges
After cutting the backplate to size, you need to work on cleaning and finishing. Start by pickling the assembly to clean off any oxidization. Then, use sandpaper or a file to smooth out any rough edges that could affect the final look of your creation.
This step is crucial for achieving a professional finish and ensuring that your bezel setting looks polished and well-crafted.
Once you’ve completed this step, you can move on to securing the stone within the bezel and using a pusher or bezel roller to tighten the bezel around the stone. These actions will ensure that your stone is securely held in place within its setting, giving your piece a finished and professional appearance.
Setting the Stone
Once the bezel is in place, you’ll need to secure the stone within it. Using a pusher or bezel roller, carefully tighten the bezel around the stone to ensure it sits snugly and securely.
Securing the stone within the bezel
Securing the stone within the bezel is a critical step. Gently place the stone in the bezel, ensuring it fits snugly. Use a pusher or bezel roller to carefully tighten the bezel around the stone, making sure it’s secure.
To make sure everything stays put, avoid any gaps between the stone and bezel. This helps keep your beautiful piece intact for years to come.
Using a pusher or bezel roller to tighten the bezel around the stone
Keep in mind not to rush this process; take your time working around the entire circle until you achieve an even and secure fit for the stone within the bezel setting. Be sure to use your pusher or bezel roller to carefully press the bezel inwards around the stone.
With gentle but firm pressure, work your way around the entire circumference of the bezel. Ensure it holds the stone securely without applying too much force. This step guarantees that your stone stays in place and provides a professional finish to your jewelry piece.
Final Adjustments and Polishing
Once your bezel is secure, it’s time for the final adjustments and refinement. Ensure everything fits perfectly and there are no gaps before you give it that shine. Remember to go over every inch of the setting to ensure it’s flawless.
Refining brings out the true beauty of your creation. Take your time ensuring each detail shines – it’s these final touches that truly make a piece stand out.
Checking for loose areas or gaps
When ensuring the stone fits tightly within the bezel, envision this: Make sure the stone snugly fits within the bezel setting, avoiding any gaps. Use personalized language and say “picture this,” “by incorporating,” and “bespoke.”.
Moreover, post-soldering the bezel, meticulously examine the solder joint for any irregularities. This inspection includes looking for any insecure joints or openings in the seam. Ensure you wear personal protective equipment like safety glasses to protect your eyes during these tasks.
Consider sharing some personalized references from jewelry making techniques such as prong settings and chasing hammers while discussing this topic. Utilize relevant keywords from our list such as “jewelry making” and “bezel setting.”.
Lastly, once everything is securely in place, carefully check around all edges of the setting for any potential areas of concern or unintended gaps before proceeding with stone-setting or polishing activities.
Polishing the bezel setting to a shine
After setting the stone, you’ll want to polish the bezel to make it shine. You can achieve this by using a rotary tool and fine compounds like Tripoli and rouge. The rotary tool helps in smoothing out any rough spots, while the compounds bring out that brilliant shine you’re after.
Just be sure to wear your safety glasses and a respirator mask for protection against any dust or particles generated during polishing.
Once you’ve finished with the rotary tool and compounds, give your creation a thorough inspection. Look for any remaining fire scale or oxidation that needs addressing before proceeding further.
With some care, precise attention to detail, and these tools at hand, you can ensure your bezel setting shines as brightly as your creativity!
Conclusion
Creating bezel settings for stones in rings and pendants involves several key steps. You need to carefully select the stone and choose a suitable bezel strip, then measure, cut, shape, solder, and attach the bezel to the backplate.
This process requires precision but is practical and achievable with practice. It’s important as it ensures a secure setting for your precious gemstone, elevating its appearance in your jewelry piece.
If you want to explore further on this topic or seek inspiration for your future projects, there are many resources available from jewelry-making supplies to instructional guides. Keep honing your skills and enjoy the satisfaction of crafting beautiful jewelry pieces!
FAQs
1. What’s a bezel setting in jewelry making?
A bezel setting is a type of stone setting used in jewelry making. It involves shaping a strip of metal, usually sterling silver or other malleable material, to hold the stone securely in place.
2. How do I create a bezel setting for stones in rings and pendants?
Creating a bezel setting involves several steps and tools like the needle file, hard solder, medium solder, rotary tool and chasing hammer among others. First you cut your silver sheet or bezel strip to size using jewelry tools. Next you form it around the stone with help from a bezel mandrel until it fits snuggly like cookies on a baking tray! Then comes the fun part – soldering! Using pallions of solder (small snippets), you secure your work together under heat.
3. Why use different kinds of solders during this process?
You start with hard solder for initial joins because it has higher melting point then switch to medium as it melts at slightly lower temperature ensuring earlier joints don’t come apart…it’s kind’a brilliant when you think about it!
4. How can I prevent fire scale while creating my own jewelry piece?
Fire scale is that pesky dark layer that forms on silver when heated…nobody wants that! One way to avoid this is by using pickle solution after heating; this helps clean off any fire scale and leaves your piece looking shiny again.
5.What should I consider when choosing stones for my settings?
Transparent stones are often chosen because they allow light pass through them beautifully illuminating their brilliance(who doesn’t love sparkles!). But remember each stone needs care while handling as they’re not all cut from same cloth…or should we say rock? Always ensure your chosen gemstone fits well within its new home i.e.,the “bezel cup” which gets sanded down smoothly using sandpapers before setting the stone. And hey, don’t forget to consider matching earrings too!
References
- https://www.instructables.com/Bezel-Setting-Tutorial/
- https://www.maker-monologues.com/blog/bezel-setting (2017-03-30)
- https://nancylthamilton.com/techniques/stone-setting/bezel-making-setting-and-soldering/
- https://bezelease.com/offsite/make-bezel/
- https://orchid.ganoksin.com/t/soldering-multiple-settings-on-a-pendant/41464
- https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Simple-Bezel-Set-Ring/
- https://moconnor.browndeerschools.com/k-5-art/unit-4-ring-making-and-stone-setting
- https://www.kernowcraft.com/jewellery-making-tips/gemstone-setting-advice/how-to-make-a-bezel-set-cabochon-ring-with-made-by-oonagh
- https://orchid.ganoksin.com/t/joining-3-bezels-to-backplate-for-ring-how-to-proceed/55427 (2017-11-12)
- https://mybrownwren.com/blog/stone-setting-and-finishing-tips
- https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/project/how-to-beautiful-bezels/
- https://www.kernowcraft.com/jewellery-making-tips/gemstone-setting-advice/how-to-set-a-bezel-setting-the-basics